The Ted's Stone, as you will see, is simply a variation of the Montana Nymph. The late Ted Trueblood (Field and Stream Magazine) altered the black and yellow Montana Nymph to the brown and orange scheme more representative of prominent Eastern US stonefly nymphs. The two are tied in identical fashions.

Montana-style nymphs are also popular with European stillwater anglers, where they often substitute the biot tails with a long marabou tail.

MATERIAL LIST

Hook: Mustad 9671 (or equivalent 2XL hook)

Weight: Lead wire

Thread: Brown

Tail: Brown goose Biots

Abdomen: Fine brown chenille

Wingcase: Fine brown chenille

Legs: Brown or Furnace hackle

Thorax: fine orange chenille

Place hook in vise.

Wrap lead wire over middle 2/3 of the hook shank. Match lead diameter to hook wire diameter.

Attach thread among the wraps of lead.

Secure lead and start to build the fore and aft tapers.

Obtain some dyed brown goose biots.

Snip out two biots. Notice how they have a slight curve.

Flip one biot over so that the curves oppose each other. Be sure the tips are aligned.

Biots generally become wider and a bit shorter toward one end of the stripped bundle, I generally avoid using these as they are too wide and lack the curve we are seeking.

Measure the pair to be equal to 1/2 the hook length.

Switch hands and grasp the pair by their tips so that the butt ends flare. Slide them onto the shank from the rear so that they are against the sides of the shank as shown.

With a well-placed pinch wrap, secure the biots to the hook at the measured point.

Advance the thread forward to the rear shoulder of the lead wire. Clip the excess.

Select a piece of fine brown chenille and secure it at the rear edge of the lead shoulder.

Bind it back to the tail.

Advance your thread forward to the middle of the shank. Be sure to fill in any gaps on the way, and smooth out the wire taper if need be.

Wrap the chenille forward in tight, touching turns. Use both hands to "play catch" where one hand wraps the chenille and the other hands grabs it near the bottom of each pass-never letting the chenille go between wraps. This will encourage the chenille to twist upon itself with each wrap, causing it to get tighter. This creates a nicer body.

Once at the middle, secure the chenille atop the hook then form a short loop and secure it in place. Clip the excess.

Select a brown or furnace saddle whose barb length is about twice the gap of the hook.

Expose the stem above the base fuzz.

Clip the feather below the exposed stem.

Orient the feather so that the underside is facing up.

Secure the feather to the side of the thorax just in front of the abdomen.

Advance the thread forward, stopping short of the hook eye.

Select a short piece of fine orange chenille and expose the core on one end.

Secure the chenille by the core behind the eye, leaving room for the head.

Wrap the chenille rearward in tight, touching turns with the last turn going behind the hackle.

Next, wrap the chenille back forward.

Secure with thread by making one turn over the chenille...

...lifting the chenille and making a turn in front...

...make another turn over to wedge-in the chenille...

...then one last turn in front to get the thread out of harms way.

Cut the chenille good and close, the thread is out of danger!

Make 3 or 4 tight, well-spaced turns of hackle through the chenille thorax. Secure the hackle in front with thread.

Snip the excess.

With your fingers, spread the hackle fibers on top to create a place to lay the wingcase. As an alternative you can simply cut these fibers but I feel the result is less attractive.

Fold the loop of chenille forward and press it down with your thumb.

Take two wraps of thread around the material and hook shank to secure it.

Reposition and tighten if needed.

Lock it down with several tight wedge wraps.

Clip the excess close.

Pull the hackle fibers back to expose the head region.

Build a neat head and whip-finish. Then cement for durability.

A completed Ted's Stone Nymph!