The bead head Prince nymph is a fine example of an effective attractor or searching nymph. Most imitative of an Isonychia nymph it is also a suitable pass for the multitudes of dark nymphs trout see. The biot wings provide a stark contrast to the pattern which I feel is key in it's effectiveness.

I have taken a fancy to this fish-catcher, so let's tie it!

MATERIAL LIST :

Hook: Partridge BIN

Weight: Tungsten bead and lead wire

Thread: Brown

Tail: Tan goose biots (rubber hackle is a neat alternative)

Ribbing: fine gold oval tinsel and fine monofilament

Body: Peacock

Wing: White goose biots

Throat: Brown Pullet

Collar: Fox Squirrel Dubbing (Optional)

Affix bead and insert hook.

Wrap about 1/2 shank with lead wire. Wire diameter should match the hook wire diameter .

Wiggle excess wire to break it at the hook and slide the wire up into/against the bead.

Start jam knot behind the wire to lock it in place.

Advance to the rear--just above the barb position.

Select 2 tan goose biots. Flip one of them around so that the natural curves oppose each other and align the tips.

Measure the tips to equal 1/2 the length of the hook and slide the but ends in from the rear. You want then to align parallel wit the hook shank. Be sure the measured point is at the thread.

Take a complete loose turn of thread around both biots, then a second tight turn to lock them it. If one misaligns use the butt end to reposition it. A 3rd wrap of thread will seal the deal.

Bind the biots up to the lead and clip the excess.

Affix a section of gold tinsel to the far side of the hook. Use the material to fill in the gap behind the lead.

Return the thread to the rear of the lead wire.

Affix the fine mono thread to the near side of the hook.

Select 6 to 8 peacock strands, align the tips and clip off the top 1-inch. This will remove the most fragile section. Affix this to the top of the hook as shown.

Advance the thread. Stop shy of the bead.

Slightly twist and wrap the herl bundle forward. On the final wrap pass in front of the thread then pull it back slightly and make ONE wrap of thread.

Clip the excess.

Counter-rib the gold tinsel. Again, last wrap passes in front of the thread, pull it back slightly and make one wrap of thread to lock it in.

Palmer the mono rib forward and repeat as above.

Select two white goose biots and place them in your fingers, one on top of the other, as shown.

Secure the biots to the top of the fly, as a wing, as shown using two wraps of thread. Tips should reach just to the rear of the body.

Use the butt ends to separate the biots into the familiar "X" formation.

Fold the butt ends over and secure with two tight wraps. This will lock it all in place and avoid the unsightly stubs from sticking out over the bead. Once secure, trim the butts close.

Select a brown pullet (hen chicken) feather from a cape or back. Separate a section of barbs.

Grasp the barbs from the top and bottom (not front back) as shown. With your other hand grasp the tip of the feather and pull it sharply toward you (not away from your fingers). This will remove the clump of barbs with tips aligned.

Barbs removed.

Invert, or rotate, the fly and tie in the section of barbs as a throat. Tips should just reach the hook point. Secure with 3 wraps and trim excess.

Rotate hook to normal position. Apply dubbing wax to a few inches of thread just below the hook.

Lightly touch some fox squirrel dubbing to the waxed thread. Then give the bobbin a good CW twist to secure and distribute the fur.

Wrap a small fur collar to hide the ugly thread wraps. Whip finish.

Completed Bead Head Prince Nymph.